History of West Baden and French Lick Springs

Chapter 1

Mineral Springs and Health Resorts

Ownership and transition from the earliest
history to the present time

The French Lick Springs were the undisputed happy hunting grounds of the America Indiana for at least five hundred years up the French settlement at the place about 170 years ago. Until that time the red man considered the springs the gift of the Great Spirit. Here they held their councils and smoked the pipe of peace. Here the wild beasts were at peace with man.

This was to the Indians a type of the future state; the Happy Hunting Grounds were the good Indians with their dogs were to enjoy the chase to all eternity. One of the first emigrants to settle at this noted place was Joel Charles, about 1811. By 1817 the population had increased until there were 24 voters and a civil government was desired. Joel Charles was elected Justice of the Peace. Out of the twenty-four voters there were three candidates. Joel Charles received 13 votes and was declared elected.

The lands in the immediate vicinity of the springs were at first reserved for manufacturing salt. Experiment proved them worthless for that purpose and they were thrown on the market for sale. William A. Bowles became the first owner. This was in 1832, and Dr. Bowles was the continued owner until his death in 1873, a period of forty-one years. Bowles built the first hotel, about 1840. In 1846 he leased the springs for five years to Doctor John A. Lane. At the expiration of the lease, Bowles assumed the management until 1864. He then leased it to Dr. Samuel Ryan for a period of fifteen years. At the close of this lease the springs were again under the management of Bowles until 1873, when he died.

J. C. Albert and John Baker managed the springs for the heirs during a part of 1880 and 1881. After much litigation and repeated sales that were set aside by the courts, James M. Andrew and H. E. Wells became the owners and managers of this most famous pleasure and health resort.

This firm had a large and increasing patronage, and made much enlargement and improvement to the hotel. In 1887 Andrew and Wells sold to the French Lick Springs Company, and this company in turn sold to the French Lick Springs Hotel Company (the present owners). This transaction occurred in 1891. The improvements made by the present company surpass in extent and grandeur all former improvements, This immense, brick, fireproof hotel, with its Bedford stone front steps and marble stairways and superior workmanship, towering seven stories high, is a credit to the owner and fitting tribute to the enterprise of the owners. And an appropriate finishing touch to crown these healing fountains, as they send up their sparkling supple of life-giving waters.

The twin sister of French Lick may be briefly told as follows: The pace was discovered simultaneously with French Lick, and was for many years called the Mile Lick, as it was situated just one mile north of the former place. Dr. John A. Lane, while occupying French Lick under Bowles from 1846 to 1951, conceived the idea of purchasing and improving the Mile Lick Springs. The land surrounding these springs was low and wet, and annually overflowed by the backwaters from Lost River. The uplands were very broken, including Mount Arie and other grand old hills.

The agriculturists could not see in this any great promise, but Dr. Lane saw in it the future rival of French Lick. He purchased seven hundred and seventy acres and commenced improving it. In one year he had built a sawmill, constructed a bridge across Lick Creek and completed a hotel. This building in size and number of rooms for visitors surpassed the one occupied by him at French Lick. Lane named the place West Baden and entered at once to successful competition with Dr. Bowles at French Lick Springs. In 1864 Hugh Wilkins, by contract, assumed the management of West Baden for a period of ten years. In 1872 Wilkins died and Mrs. Wilkins assumed the management, assisted by W. F. Osborn. At the close of the lease Dr. Lane again assumed control until 1883, when he sold to Dr. James Braden, George W. Campbell, John T. Stout, Elvert B. Rhodes and Amos Stout. This firm made many improvements and in 1888, by sale and transfer, the firm became Sinclair and Rhodes. After many extensive improvements the great building was destroyed by fire. This occurred in 1891. At the time of the great conflagration the stockholders had all retired from ownership except Lee W. Sinclair and Elvert B. Rhodes. Sinclair owning two-thirds and E. B. Rhodes one-third. Mr. Rhodes sold his interest in the property to L. W. Sinclair and others. The new firm proceeded to erect the present imposing structure, the largest and most completely fireproof hotel in all the Western States.

The story of French Lick and West Baden, from their discovery to the present time, would be incomplete without some reference to Flat Lick. Noted in its early history as a resort of wild game. It was visited by the same bold pioneers who enjoyed the chase at the other licks along the creek that borrows its name from these places. More than 50 years ago I passed the spot. I remember even then, the people living in that region had placed gums in the ground, and the mineral waster coming from unknown depths filled the gums and ran over and made its way to the creek nearby. There were two or three of these springs at that time and the amount of water was about the same as now.

On the 25th day of July 1904, I determined to visit these springs once more so as to be able to describe their present appearance. I procured a conveyance at French Lick and drove to the place, a distance of five miles southeast of the town of French Lick. The road winds up French Lick Creek with its green cornfields and meadows in the rich narrow bottomlands, and the fine old hills on either hand. Occasionally the top of some elevated spot it crowned by a nice residence chosen by some enterprising citizen for a home. Mr. Thomas Lane is the present owner of Flat Lick.

The springs are in sight of his residence. From his home I walked to the spot where I viewed these wonderful flowing wells half a century ago. The large forest trees whose leafy boughs cast their deep shade about the place are all gone. In the place of the trees where the hunters climbed and hid among the branches to shoot down the unsuspecting deer ninety years ago, grass and corn and small trees flourish, and the summer sun pours down his burning rays.

But the fountain flows as of old, but not in the wooden gum, but in an iron casing. One of the things struck me as a little strange. The surface near the spring was smoothly trampled and packed and there was a washing machine, several tubs and buckets and some clotheslines. As there seemed to be a good spring near every residence along the creek, my curiosity was aroused and on inquiry I was informed that this water is the best water to wash clothes ever known, and that many women of the neighborhood come there regularly to do their washing. This was the testimony of Mr. Lane, the owner. He also said that the waters at French Lick are not at all fit to wash clothes in, but the mineral waters that come to the surface at Flat Lick is the best in the world for that purpose.

The water has never been analyzed. A turnpike road has been completed nearly all the way and a trip to this place makes a fine drive or horseback ride. No extensive improvements have ever been made. A place holding so much inducement for improvement and proximity to French Lick ought to induce some enterprising capitalist to invest and made this lovely spot one of the most inviting in the French Lick valley.