Coyner, JM
Steamboat Superior, LAKE MICHIGAN, Aug. 1, '55. (1855) -- to the Crawfordsville Journal
MR. EDITOR—Supposing that a correspondence in reference to this part of the country might be interesting to your read¬ers I have concluded to give you occasionally a few items of traveling observations. Being desirous on account of my health, to rusticate during the hot weather of August, I left Waveland, July 23d, bound for "Superior," Douglas Co. Wisconsin, which is situated on the western extremity of Lake Superior, at the mouth of the St. Louis River.
I reached Crawfordsville by noon, expecting to have to lie over until next morn--but the old proverb that "it is an ill wind that blows good to no one," was illustrated in my favor by the detention of the cars, which enabled me to reach Lafayette for tea, and Chicago next morning for breakfast. The ride to the Lake was quite pleasant, except that sleep had to seek other quarters, at least for one night.
To the stranger Chicago presents much that is interesting. It is undoubtedly a great commercial mart, and is growing quite rapidly, both in wealth and iniquity. A single illustration will show the rise of real estate: some twenty years since an hostler purchased a lot in the business part of the city for $1,800, which he sold a few days since for $90,000, for a Hotel site. This is but one of a thousand instances where fortunes have been made by the rise of city property. The Chicago River affords an excellent harbor for craft of all kinds and which runs through the City.
Chicago to some extent is a manufacturing city as yet confined principally to machinery. Finding that I was six days in advance of the regular packet to Superior, and not wishing to take the Collingwood Line which runs to the eastern part of Lake Huron, I took passage in the Keystone State for Milwaukie (sic) after remaining in Chicago some 12 hours. We left the pier about 9 o’clock p.m. and having no rest the night before, I resigned myself to sleep – and was captive at will until I found myself next morning at the Milwaukie pier, the passengers and omnibuses all having left me. Slowly yet surely, I made my way to the Walker House, where I found every accommodation the traveler needs to make him comfortable. The proprietors and waiters were polite and obliging all moving to the “tune of two dollars a day.”
The Female College held its Commencement the day I arrived, which 1 had the pleasure of attending. I heard the Graduating Class examined in two studies, 'Philosophy of History' and 'Butler's Analogy,' in which they wen laurels of praise, both for themselves and their "Alma Mater.''— This Institution is under the care of Miss MARY MORTIMER, assisted by an efficient corpse of teachers.' Long may the Institution send out young ladies as well prepared to battle for the right as the four seemed to be who received the diplomas of Graduation. Having nearly a week to remain in" the city, I made good use of it in gathering knowledge in reference to its location, growth, business, etc.
Milwaukie is decidedly a pretty City. She lies principally in the Valley formed by the bluffs bordering, the Milwaukie and Menome rivers, which unite in the City, occupying a vast amphitheater with the hills on the North, West, and South, and the Lake on the East. But she is not to be restrained by nature's barriers she is saying to the Lake, "thus far shalt thou come and no farther," and is marching right over the high bluffs. When they are too high, pitching them and casting them into the sea literally, where they are not converting them to beautiful residences.
Here may be enjoyed some of the most magnificent views I ever beheld. You can look down on the City with its tall spires, magnificent blocks and capacious streets, spread out like a mass at your feet while to the Ieft ls the still surface of the Milwaukie river, bearing on its bosom the craft of commerce to the right is the meandering Menome, and before you, far beyond the City, spreads out the Lake, dotted all over with white sails. Who can view such a prospect and not have his soul swell with emotions indescribable?
The growth of the City is rapid and yet healthy. Real Estate that two years ago sold for $1,000 is now being bought for speculation for $3,000. But Milwaukie has dark spots on her escutcheon which she cannot hide. The foul curse of intemperance is now spreading misery and devastation.
Not that she is noted for riot, and debauchery, although has share, of these. The evil is general—on every corner you may see the hydra headed monster, with its fiery eyes, ready to bite and devour. My humble prayer for Milwaukie that she may, e're it be too late to save the rising generation, have a good temperance law, and see that it is carried out.
The foreign population is also strong in the majority. The census just taken show a population of about 19,500 foreigners, and 11,500 American born. The only hope for the American party is found in the uncertain influence of the German population, which is here as in many other places, at sword points with the Irish.
But on the liquor question, they are to their death against a liquor law. Yet the friends of temperance and order hops to see the day when the City government will be such as an American can boast of, and temperance rule in all parts of the City. So much for Milwaukie.
On Tuesday about noon, the packet, Superior, Capt. Tomkins, landed at the pier, bound north for Superior where they took on an immense amount of freight for Lake Superior. – huge black mass on most of the rest of the letter – some at end – The next town is Minatorooe, a town of some 1,600 inhabitants yet full of aspirations. She hopes to be the Lake Michigan terminus of the Northern Pacific Railroad. Property is on the rise rapidly and Lots in the business part of town are selling for $1600 to $2000. She has an extensive Lumber trade, being surrounded by extensive Pineries. Some miles from Menitorooe is Two Rivers, the last town on the Lake Shore. She has 12,000 of population and is yet rather a wild town; but her extensive Steam Saw Mills make business quite lively. But I must close here. My next will be from the “Sool” Providence willing, JM COYNER